Contented connections of friendship & travel

A quick timeline to share the past two weeks of journeying with my soul friend Anna! More to come, of course!

July 9 – Met Anna in Paris at CDG!! Spent the night chez (my brother) Alex and Bérengère.

July 10 – Early cab ride and train ride (6am) to Brussels Belgium! Checked luggage and walked around Brussels from morning to night, exploring markets, a brocante, and the sights, sounds and tastes of the city!

July 11-13 – Morning in Brussels and train to Amsterdam Netherlands! Two and a half days in the Netherlands, touring Amsterdam and its canals, visiting friends in Amersfoort and immersing in the Dutch culture!

July 13-15 – Train to Brussels and then through the Chunnel to London! Late arrival and true youth hostel experience… Surprisingly clear skies and lots of surrounding sites!

July 15-22 – Train to Holyhead and ferry to Dublin! A week of catching up, exploring country roads, cultural awareness and good old fashioned girl time!!!  Quick flight back to Paris.

July 23 – Rainy fall like weather and a stroll through Père Lachaise followed by a relaxed evening with Alex, Bérengère and friends.

July 24 – Tour de France!!! And late night train to Lyon…

The trouble with the trottoir!

It hasn’t taken long for me to feel at ease and completely accustomed to my French voiture; including haphazard driving, irregular parking and a general acceptance for chaotic conditions. So in my newly acquired French driving indifference, I have come to learn, accept and appreciate that I can, should and will park just about anywhere I so desire… Well with arrogance comes life lessons, some heeded and others repeated! In my case, my superiority French driving identity led me to park on the same sidewalk numerous times without fault or fine. Until….after being jinxed and told I was breaking established driving laws based on my parking spot selections; I became the unhappy recipient of a parking ticket! And not a basic €11 fine, but a whopping €35!!! You could imagine my surprise when I rounded the corner to the little side street and saw the bright white ticket billowing beneath the wiper blade L I should mention however, that when I parked atop the curbed sidewalk, I was not the only car in violation of restricting a pedestrian walkway; but I was the last one left on the sidewalk the following morning… oops!

After decoding the payment instructions, I could either write a cheque, buy a timbre amende or dispute the felony. No internet payment options or direct exchange of guilt and cash at a ticket office exists. So I bought a timbre amende from the bureau de Tabac, and licked the expensive €35 stamp, affixed it to the ticket, and slipped it into the mailbox as my admission of ownership of the offence.

 I am proud to admit that since then I have been careful about my parking habits and have refrained from parking atop sidewalks and curbs, and I have regressed to proper parking… however, I am sure that I will slowly revert to my old ways when the parking gets tough and it is raining, or it is late, or I am tired… 

Since I am admitting my driving faults it is fair to share that after 7 months of not driving, I lasted approximately one month of relatively calm demeanoured driving, before slipping back into my habitual aggressive defensive driving. I guess some things never change! But in my defence, it is France, and if you want to avoid being honked at, yelled at or nearly rear-ended, you best be driving with absolute purpose, determination and gusto; no Sunday drivers allowed!

 

A final toast & farewell..

Stop 10: Lyon (Renowned culinary capital & sustained cultural connection)

With my approaching surgical pre-admission later in the day, Tefta and I had one final afternoon to reminisce and sightsee; and what better place than my new hometown of Lyon!

We packed in as much as we could in less than 6 hours and made an initial stop at Place Bellecour, a famous meeting spot with a spectacular view of the Fourvière Basilica. After a quick stop at the tourist office we strolled around Vieux Lyon, ducking into the odd traboule, while winding in and around the streets and shops that lie within the old city and its innate charm.

Place Bellecour

 

A trip to Lyon is not complete without an authentic Lyonnais meal, and so with cloudy skies and drizzly rain we sat under an umbrella sheltered terrace and dined at a Bouchon Lyonnais, enjoying culinary creations home to the gastronomic capital of France.

With full bellies we began our ascent up toward the Fourvière Basilica; climbing up stairs and uphill until reaching the height of the city with an impressive panoramic view of the land below. Following a tour of the Basilica in its gleaming purity, the day had reached its end.  And so I bid Tefta adieu and imagined and hoped that her remaining days in Lyon and Paris were adventurous, joyful and memorable!

Sacred surroundings of serenity

Stop 9: Avignon (City of Popes and Roman Renaissance)

With the car all packed, without an inch to spare in the trunk or back seat, we set out on the road toward Lyon. But a road trip is not complete without one last day trip, and so we strolled through the Roman inspired village of Avignon. A major city of Provence known as the city of Popes, with an ancient Roman presence and influence, and the Palais des Papes, home to Popes of the fourteenth century. The city is filled with gothic and medieval style palaces, churches and buildings, yet the modernism of outdoor terrace squares, restaurants and shops fit seamlessly and blend beautifully into the historical aura of the city.

 

In perfect road trip fashion, we embarked on our final trolley train tour of the city, and took in the unique history and stories encompassing this revered city of France. A walk through the streets, stopping at artists stands as they created new works undoubtedly inspired by the magnificence of the grounds; and a relaxed drink across from the Palais des Papes completed our tour of Avignon. And so this was our final southern Provençal destination, before heading off to my new hometown of Lyon...

Medieval majesty & Mediterranean magnetism

Stop 7: Ramatuelle (Medieval municipality of creativity and charisma)

With the threat of rain still looming and cloudy grey skies, we set out for a day of random day tripping. On the almost 2 hour drive back to Cavalaire, we stopped in St. Tropez, for more yummy tarte tropezienne (naturally), and to search for a cute side shop with frilly, lacy and girly garments, that were admired from the visit before. We walked through the winding pedestrian paths with umbrellas held high, dodging rain puddles, and left with a much coveted summer dress and a large slab of tarte tropezienne.
 

As the rain slowed to a drizzle and the sun began to peak through the clouds, we drove up steep hills, to the medieval town of Ramatuelle. A small quaint town set apart from the rest of France, overlooking the rural countryside. From the terracotta roof tiles, small villages, farmland and forests decorated the land below. While at the centre square a live jazz band jived to the enjoyment of town folk and city escapees.   

We walked through the narrow twisting cobblestone streets and debated the joys of simple rural living to modern city excitement and convenience. A full functioning town with a creative flair and decorated whimsical scarecrows guarded most houses and shops, with beautiful plants, flowers and trees adorning window sills and edging out artistic landscapes.
 

To end our brief trip and transportation in time, we stopped for a late lunch in a tiny award winning restaurant, where we shared a table with two eccentric and friendly French gentlemen, enjoying the house speciality of stuffed tortellini with fresh bread, rounded out with light-hearted conversation. And as the clouds began to disperse and the drizzle subsided, we descended from the medieval hideaway and back to Cavalaire.

Stop 8: Cavalaire sur Mer (Small seaside village outlined in soft sandy beaches)

On our return journey to Cavalaire we drove along winding seascape and forest lined streets stopping to take a closer look at a traditional windmill and decided to explore the little town we had been calling home for the past week.

By this time the weather was still overcast and chilly, but the rain had subsided and the waterfront maintained its peaceful calm and tranquility. Cavalaire has the same charm as the larger seaside cities and villas such as Nice and Cannes, however, it is much more relaxed and subdued, preferring a shorter boardwalk still active with restaurants, shops and waterfront terraces, all surrounded by docks of boats and juts of rocky coastline. The sand is soft and rocks of all colours and shapes, gleaming with crystals and sparkles outline the beaches.

We spent a quiet evening collecting rocks and wandering around the beach and boardwalk, while fascinated by marine life and a fleet of encircling and diving baby birds. And so it was our final night in the South of France and our arms were full with natural artifacts as reminders of the magnificence of the Mediterranean.

Principled means of contentment

Stop 6: Monaco (Royalty, races & riches)

Gardens

A new GPS and little knowledge of how to change country maps and we made it into Monaco but were left to our own devices to navigate! A while later… we found the tourist office and armed with a map and suggestions, decided on a bus tour (a deviation from our well acquainted trolley train tours). Relaxed and perched atop the tour bus, we explored the area of Monaco and Monte Carlo… me in my sleepy bobble-head dreamy state, and I am sure Tefta with fresh eyes and appreciation for the beauty and charm of this tiny principality (less than 2 square kms)!

After a hypoglycaemic induced sleep (I only assume this as I was in a zombie like state of confusion and savage effects), we walked through the Ville of Monaco, the historical section of the city with the Prince’s Palace, and cobblestoned pedestrian walkways.  We witnessed the early arrival of a privileged bride as she approached the Cathedral in a convertible amidst a crowd of tourists, Monegasques and likely some media. A walk along the Gardens dedicated to the late Princess Grace Kelly, with stunning views of the rock and sea below rounded out the day, before settling into Café Paris for a much needed break and food ~ well for me anyway ;) Followed up with gigantic and heavenly delicious sundaes and we were set to return to Cavalaire, but the weather had other plans, and through torrential downpour and hail we stopped in Nice for a night of rejuvenation.

Prince's Palace

Saint Nicholas Cathedral



Promenade of Sun, Surf & Sea

Stop 5: Nice (Sandy shorelines of Promenade paradise)

With clear sunny skies, we ventured over to Nice on the fourth day of our Provence promenade. We parked the car close to the Promenade des Anglais, but much farther from the city centre, as the Promenade stretches many miles… The sun was bright and warm and sparkled and reflected off the Mediterranean Sea! We walked toward the harbour and eventually met up with a newly acquainted ami from Cannes, for lunch.

Our penchant for trolley trains, led us on another train tour of the city and up above the harbour to view the endless sea below. We strolled through the city streets, climbed stairs to the hilltop of the old city, and basked in the beauty of the warm sunny day.

That night we stopped in Cannes and drank mojitos and wine, dined and danced, and hung out with new friends from our spontaneous Midi adventures! After a restful night in Cannes we set out on a short jaunt to the Principality of Monaco…